Behind Heart Shaped Sunglasses

As we begin our inevitable trip north back to Canada we are met with excitement and sadness. Sadness not at missed opportunity, I think we have experienced Baja. But sadness to be away from such a beautiful culture. Sadness to not be immersed in a language that feels we are finally started to grasp…kinda. Sadness to not be experiencing the spice of Mexico….the resiliency of the people, the “can do” and “what’s mine is yours” attitude. The jimmy rig until it works, the what the hell kinda street is this. The loud speakers in the back of a car blasting accordian and trumpets music.

By the time we head North we will have circled the south tip twice. The East Cape is a sandy, often washboard road that starts after San Jose del Cabo up the east coast and skirting the Sea of Cortez to Cabo Pulmo, about 120kms. This road, like the road to Sierra La Laguna is best suited for smaller rigs. Giving the benefit of less crowded beaches. I was surprised to see all the residential development here, given the lack of resources. I imagine 5-10 years ago there were only a few houses and ranchos.

(A few shots along the East Cape)

Fully stocked with food and water we began the East Cape journey from the South at San Jose del Cabo. We stopped for 4 nights at the familiar Shipwrecks beach or El Cardoncito. This time there were only 3 other campers. We relaxed, swam in the Sea of Cortez visited with the neighbors, got out on the kayak and enjoyed the company of donkey,cow and goat from the nearby Rancho.

The humpback whales seem to have moved closer to shore with their babies. The whale watching is so regular that often only the breaching whales justify a gasp of delight. Paul was out on the kayak one afternoon and was able to get close enough to a mom and baby to hear them communicating from under the water. 

Continuing North we tried a few other wild camping spots and settled on a quiet spot right on the beach with large desert bushes on either side of us. There were others camped to either side but with a good distance between us. A perfect camp for the full moon! We stayed here for another 3 or 4 days. The waves here are large enough to surf. The tide here is so loud that it often wakes us in the middle of the night. Playa San Luis provided the best whale shows from the beach so far, often seeing multiple groups at once spouting and splashing. We love exploring each new beach that we stop at for its different shells and marine life that wash up on shore. Sometimes we see urchins or lobster, crab or puffer fish. 

A mako shark washed up on shore at Los Frailes.

We stopped again at Cabo Pulmo.

Back to Campestre Maranatha in La Paz for a few days. We have been to this campground 3 times now. Its a great price for the services. It’s just outside of La Paz, so that means usually we get a good night sleep and there is a lot to see and do in the city. There are also usually families with young kids that Olive can play and swim with.

A very unique mercado selling fruit and veg, a really wide selection of meat and fish, and leather(belts,bags,cowboy boots)

The travel back home has been made easier by the increase in temperature. The last part of February has been met with temps in the high to mid 30’s. Being on the beach makes this hard to seek shelter. We are learning quickly how to use our truck and camper to optimize shade both in the morning and in the afternoon. It’s just getting too hot for us Canadians. So we move.

Cuidad Constitution inland from either coast and not as hot as the south. Misiones RV park, a great place to camp.

Below Paul is filling our water tank with purified water from the agua purificada. Our tank holds 2-5 gal jugs usually costing $15-$25 pesos/jug

Romanita RV Park in Loreto for the weekend. We took in the night market again. Walked the square,went out for pizza, did some restocking and some souvenir shopping.

We met up with Rocky and Steph and some other friends we have made along the way at Playa Requeson back up at the Bahia de Concepcion. We camped on a split of land with shallow turquoise water on either side. Meeting here felt like a reunion of sorts and also a farewell as people took off to different locations further North. 

People say there is a magical feeling in Baja…. I’m realizing that to me it is the design of the trip, the 1 road in 1 road out design. You meet all these travelers from all over the world as you head down. Then as every migration pattern heads back North we are reminded of all the great people we met along the way, either in a glimpse of a familiar rig, or a shared story, or a few days to reminisce with what feels like old friends. The familiar vendors from months past all uniquely trying to sell their items. All of this unfolds under the back drop of a truly unique landscape.

Time to restock once again! Northbound we go