Behind Heart Shaped Sunglasses

As the Zopilote ~ turkey vulture seem to endlessly glide high overhead providing this calm resiliency in the desert air. We watch from the shade of our camper out on the sea many mom and calf humpback pairs spouting and breaching, tail flapping and pectoral fin splashing. It seems as if they are equally enjoying this season of their life.

After a few days on the East Cape in the sand and the sea we have decided to head toward the mountains. Sierra La Laguna is an aquifer that provides very necessary water (90%) to Los Cabos, La Paz and Todos Santos area via hauling water in trucks or pipas. It is only replenished by rainfall or hurricane. It’s interesting to be a part of this already stressed system of delivering water for tourists and locals all over Baja Sur.

Trekking up the windy, steep and bumpy road leading to several Rancho’s and eco reserves we come to the end of the road, aka Rancho San Dionisio. Beyond this point is a long hiking trail and old trading route meeting the Pacific Ocean at Todos Santos and the Sea of Cortez at La Ribera.

Rancho San Dionisio, unlike any place we’ve stayed thus far. Clarence is the American owner of this biological reserve and Ranch offering a very communal and inviting camping experience. Here we paid $200/person, Olive was free. We have access to the communal kitchen and fire pit, hot showers, composting toilets, laundry and potable water. We also have access to eating from the garden, whatever is in season! This time of the year the cherry tomatoes, salad greens and herbs are perfect for picking. Our camp spot is around the communal fire pit and in the mango orchard. Also on the property is an avocado orchard, citrus trees and passionfruit.

Oh and did I mention grass….we haven’t seen grass since Oregon…maybe.

We spend our days visting with other travellers. One of the benefits to this paradise is that the road up is pretty challenging leaving it only available to vans, overland units, tent campers. Usually units under a certain length.

Here we met up again with our friends Rocky and Steph who are camping in their vehicle instead of their R-Pod trailer.

Everyday we take in the 20 minute one way hike to the turquoise freshwater pools along the river bed. 

There is a vibe here, very special to this place. This land was owned before for generations by a family of ranchers. When the last man to own it became to old to farm it and all of his daughters had moved off it became vacant and very overgrown. Clarence and some men worked for a year and a half to clear the land…removing sugarcane that was farmed on the land prior. The intention and love that has been worked on the ground is palpable. Existing trees have been given the opportunity to thrive and provide an abundant habitat for local honey bees, butterflies and hummingbirds. Every night and morning these massive trees hum with pollinators hard at work. The magnificent blossoms also provide a natural sweet aroma that simply lives in the air.

I volunteered to teach a few morning yoga classes. Right beside this majestic banyan tree.

Over the weekend some locals trekked up the road to tent with their families. This was the most genuine opportunity to mingle with locals. The community feeling in this kitchen is one of great kindness and appreciation for each other.

Olive had the opportunity to practice some more Spanish with a little girl whose father worked at the ranch. Such a sweet experience to witness.

Our evenings were spent around the fire chatting with other travelers (who were either English speaking or Spanish) We were introduced to the sound of a Navajo double flute with a beat box inspired twist by a man who works at the ranch.

Charlie the local bull who hangs around the perimeter of the ranch as he is fed some delicious alfalfa hay by Clarence. Charlie was to be sold for market when the farm was bought and Clarence offered market value to keep him around. At night he stands or lays at the cattle gate almost like a steward of the ranch. 

After 4 days it was time to pack up and restock. We headed back to La Paz and camp Maranatha (we have stayed here before). We spent 4 days chilling pool side and looking around La Paz…I made sure to not eat any shrimp here!

We have been waiting for this next stay with excitement and patience for the past month. Back to Todos Santos and Playa Los Cerritos….maybe our other favorite place in Baja so far.

Paul, Olive and I checked in to our rental (Cerritos Surf Residences) on Valentines day for 9 nights. The following day Paul will drive south to San Jose del Cabo to pick up Ryan and Karen(my brother and his wife). Olive and I stayed behind and swam in the pool. Side note….this girls swimming is hitting next level with all the practice.

Valentine’s day supper on our balcony

We enjoyed showing Ryan and Karen around Cerritos, Pescadero and Todos Santos for the next 8 days. We filled our fridge and cupboards with food from local veg/fruit stands. We feasted on all the fresh guacamole and Pico de Gallo we could eat. The rental comes with a blender, Yay! We had fresh mango and pineapple smoothies almost every morning from our ocean view balcony while we watched whales breaching. I took hot showers every day, used the dishwasher, microwave and stretched out of the couch. Don’t get me wrong I am loving the camping trip…but I’m making the most of our condo rental. 

Ryan and I took in a surf lesson and then recovered for 2 days. It was such a great experience that we rented boards a few days later and Ryan even rented for a third time.

Our friends arrived a few days after us. Rocky, Ryan, Karen and Paul went fishing on panga boats. They caught several different species of fish. But mackerel were the major “biters”. It’s interesting watching and likely experiencing the docking of these panga boats. In order to get them high enough on the beach past the surf the fisherman throttle the motor and skid them up the beach from the water. As they were coming in the fisherman instructed everyone to brace with their legs on the seat in front of them, to soften the crash landing.

We feasted on mackerel on the balcony

We relaxed on the beach and cooled off in the ocean. Sipped strong margaritas by the rental pool.

We walked the streets of Todos Santos, ducking in and out of eclectic bohemian and traditional shops.

The Paul, Olive and I joined a 2 hour ecstatic dance experience in this absolutely beautiful yoga studio-Cuatros Vientos. Check them out here: http://www.cuatrovientosbaja.com.

Well….back to dirt bag living once again. We dropped Ryan and Karen at the airport. The break from the small space of the camper was well received. We feel a rejuvenation as we head out back to the East Cape.